Hindu Rituals – Tam Brahm ones in Delhi

Death is never discussed, it is never planned and least of all ceremonies associated with it are never thought about. Who would want to visit them again, hearts of hearts everyone knows one has to reach there but no one ever wants to, so it is a much avoided topic. Happy thoughts and ceremonies are welcome, but this is usually a big no no. Call it Destiny, but once it stared us in the face, there was much learning. A revelation that a place like Delhi, could pack in so much in ritualistic traditions, where ceremonies could be performed as it could be in a village on the banks of a river. There were people associated with it, for whom such rituals and participation in it were a part of life. The entire operation running smoothly without a hitch, every aspect could be organized to ensure its smooth performance without any fuss, of course for a consideration. Given our Tam Brahm emphasis on rituals, Delhi in my opinion seemed to be the North Pole when it came to facilities for such rituals which could be contracted out and performed with ease in other cities like Madras, (Chennai if you must), Mumbai….. For my father and I the loss was of a larger magnitude which coupled with grief stunted our ability to organizing the rituals at home. And then, vistas opened up where we heard or Priests / Pandits or in Tamil Vadhyar or Sanskrit Shastrigal (one who has mastered the Shastras) who organized the entire run of 13 day ceremonies including buying all items, the Dhan (to be given to Brahmins), Dakshina, the ahuti for burning, food…….

Kartik Shastrigal was the one who came to our rescue, referenced through a short chain of relatives. An enterprising young man in his late 30s man, born, brought up and educated in Delhi, who studied the Vedas and Shastras at a Gurukul in Benares (Varanasi). What set him apart was his being from the contemporary world he was able to understand our grief, circumstance and be able to perform the rituals so that each of the variable was addressed. The rituals were not a chore to be done by rote but one which he explained, helped us along and made it seem all so relevant.

The place for the rituals, a tiny home in village Bindapur. Bindapur is the place chosen by DDA to present its expandable housing scheme. Meaning yes, the ever expansive construction is actually legal. This flat though small was to be our Benares or Gaya during the 4 days of the ceremony. Can such a little space give the same mental satisfaction? Travelling the first day I must have cursed everyone for putting us through it. But somehow it did. But moving from ceremony to ceremony each day revealed a growing satisfaction. The ceremonies seemed as our way of finishing off all the unfinished business we had with her. Conversations left unfinished, trips planned but never undertaken, work to be done together, re-doing the house, shopping expeditions….. It suddenly was our Karma.

Why do I write about this in visitors2delhi? Yes, the ritualistic traditions shunned in a modernistic world exists peacefully in its full fledged earlier avatar. Priests, rites, offerings……………well it is another world, lesser known which does exist in Delhi.
(More about Ram Ghat in the next one)

Wedding and a Funeral

It has been a while since I wrote on Delhi. Explore I did, write I could not or rather did not, mentally thousands of words may have been written but nothing on the dear faithful computer. First there was a wedding, and then the lethargy of enjoying it before writing about all those wonderful experiences of the wedding, the preparation, attending…..then came a much deserved but shot trip to Jaipur, and then the least expected my mother fell ill, nothing much but she needed to rest. So everything was put on the back burner till she recovered. And recover she did except not in this mortal way but going away never to return on 2nd December 2010. The grief, trauma engulfs but writing is theraupetic and so once again the faithful dear computer comes to the rescue becoming my agony aunt!

Malai Mandir - Uttara Swamimalai

Uttara Swamimalai meaning the Swamimalai of Lord Subramania in the North, as opposed to the 6 such in the South. It soon came to be called Malai Mandir, which is how it is known even today. The word malai (pronounced maley) in Tamil means hill and the name translates literally into a temple atop a hill. It is perched on a tiny hillock. The word though becomes mispronounced to its Hindi counterpart malai meaning cream! This was the bastion of South Indian families through the 70s till probably the 90s when other south Indian temples started dotting the Delhi landscape. My faintest earliest memories about it as a construction site when the temple was started to be built and the head of the Kanchi mutt camped there. The only thing I remember was seeing elephants which were a novelty in Delhi. Since then, the temple has grown to now becoming a landmark on the outer ring road. The temple houses the main deity – Lord Subramania and of other Gods including Shiva, Ganesha and Rajarajeshwari. The temple has been built in the traditional style of temples of Lord Subramania as in Tamil Nadu.

On festival days, the biggest being Skanda Shashti (shasti or 6th day after Diwali) one can get to view some of the finest of local dances and orchestra from Tamil Nadu. Be it the kavadi, karagam and more…

Location – On the outer ring road, opposite Vasant Vihar. Approximately 12 kms from Connaught Place. Specifically it is in Sector VII at R K Puram. There is plenty of parking available outside the gate. The temple can be seen from afar as atop a hill, a pretty sight giving the impression of a typical Tamil Nadu style temple. The walls have the typical red stripes on the outside.

Timings – During Summers Morning – 6:30 am – 11 / 12 am, Evenings – 5:30 – 9:00 pmWinters – Morning 7:00 am – 12:00 am, evenings – 5:00 – 8:30 pm. Do check with the temple authorities for timings on auspicious days, Sundays etc..

Highlight – This is “the” place to pick up Madrasi products – plantain leaves, kanakabaram (orange coloured flowers), kadambam (where floral chains are made with a riot of colours of flowers), lotus pods, rose petals. Most of the flowers are flown in straight from Chennai, still Madras to most of us. Karika patta, paan leaves…. I am told the prashad handed out is also equally tasty, though I am yet to be privy to it.

Insider Tip – The cynosure of all eyes within the temple premises are the two pairs of peacock/peahen. Their sharp cry is a blissful relief amidst the concrete jungle around. If lucky, the peacock can even deign to dance for you spreading its wings in happy abundance. Feed the peacocks and the voracious peahens (yes, she can literally bite the pieces off your hands) popcorns, corn or better still bits of coconut from the archana basket after the worship (chadava). This was revealed to me by a regular. Climb up the steps to the top where Lord Muruga / subramania diety presides. Sit on the outer periphery, there is always a breeze even on the stillest of day. The city looks gorgeous from there. Believe me, sitting up there enjoying the breeze, watching the city flow past hearing the peacock cry, it is truly an oasis – a heaven in the hustle bustle of the city.

St. James Church

St. James Church was the first church to be built in Delhi and has been witness to history unfold. A symbol of Thanksgiving built by James Skinner it is a beautiful example of early 19th century architecture, a harmonious blend of the colonial and Mughal styles. The building of the church was a fulfillment of a vow made by Skinner when he and his men lay wounded in the battle fought for the Karolee Raja against the Onreah Raja in 1800. Suffering in pain, he is supposed to have made a vow that if he were to survive this wreck, he would build a church. He was saved and fulfilled his vow. The work on the Church is supposed to have begun in 1823. In 1836 Bishop Daniel Wilson consecrated it naming it after St. James. Skinner’s Horse, a force he created is still a part of the Indian Army.

Location – At the busy crossroad of Kashmiri Gate. Down the Daryaganj Road at the far end. Approximately 8 – 9 kms from Connaught Place.

Timings – Open for Prayers Sunday morning. Otherwise one has to speak to the caretaker or the authorities to be allowed inside.

Highlight – Recent has been the restoration work by INTACH of the dome, parts of the building and the stained glass windows. Ratish Nanda, conservation architect has been instrumental in the project. The cracks in the dome with iron rods which had rusted were replaced bit by bit, with fabricated steel rods. Also over time cement had been used to seal the cracks, all of which was removed and replaced with lime plaster.

Insider Tip – Go there on Sunday mornings. The entire area is very quite, peaceful, no traffic and there is absolute calm. Inside the church the stained glass windows are breathtakingly beautiful, they were also part of the restoration process. The ones flanking the altar depict, the Crucifixion and Ascension, while the third terrified soldiers at Jesus Christ’s resurrection. The sight that greets one on entering the church is a picture of serene tranquility - of the beautifully carved altar with two magnificent stained glass windows flanking it, the dome shaped ceiling supported by huge pillars, the old organ, the lectern and the pulpit.
There on eat at the paranthewala gali – read the post on it in Eating out
&
browse at Darya Ganj Sunday book market – read the post on it in Shopping in Delhi

Swaminarayan Akshardham

The Swaminarayan Akshardham temple on the banks of the River Yamuna is a wonder of sorts. It is actually with awe that one realizes that the temple which could easily be mistaken for an ancient rock cut edifice from the Indian history is a modern 21st century making. – 2005 to be precise. The temple in brief can be described as a summation of history, beliefs, ideals, tenets & occurrences of nearly 10,000 years old Indian culture curated and exhibited under one roof. It will be simplistic to call it one roof as the temple spreads around a total of 30 acres and the lush garden spreading another 60 acres. The name Akshardham means eternal and abode of the Divine. It is as one looks at the gigantic dome arising into the sky, one is transported back into time, the hustle and bustle of the street outside is a distant dream. It takes some momentous time to take in all the sites – the structure using red, pink sandstone from Rajasthan and white marble, the beautiful almost springing with life carvings. Each expression caught to perfection, it is inspired by the Nagara style of Temple Architecture, traced to the 5th century. What makes it attractive is the wonderful combination of materials, symbols and aesthetics. Each flower carved, each panel, each stone animal or figure of God, Sadhu (ascetic) or holy men carved has a meaning behind it - which is symbolic and philosophical.

Location – It is an approximate distance of 15 kms from Connaught Place. It is just across the bridge over the Yamuna river. Had the river Yamuna flowed through in its pristine glory, the sight across the river would have been an unforgettable one. One can see the temple from afar. It is on N H 24, Noida Mor.

Timings - 10:00 am to 7 pm (April- Sept) and 9:00 am to 6 pm (Oct. – March), Night lighting on Saturdays and Sundays. The temple is closed on Monday. Entry is free though there is a small charge to view the two exhibitions and large format film. No electronic cameras or cell phones allowed inside. Parking space is substantial.

Highlight - For the purpose of records, the mammoth temple is 141 ft high, 316 ft wide and 356 ft long. It has a total of 234 ornately carved pillars, 9 ornate domes, 20 samvarans (crowns), four entrance doors, intricately carved outer wall and two plinths, the awe inspiring Gajendra Peeth and a total of 20,000 statues of great devotees, asetics and acharyas of India carved on it.

Insider Tip - One needs an entire day to see the place thoroughly and can still come back dissatisfied. The food served at the inhouse restaurant is wonderful The souvenir shop stocks interesting products including handicrafts – good embroidery and beadwork, and organic products – honey, tea and more.

Matka Peer Baba

This religious place, a must stop for pilgrims is located on the Purana Qila Road, strategically next to the Crafts Museum bang, on the main road. While traversing this road, before the Delhi zoo, one can see a tree with plenty of pots hung inverted. These are offerings made by devotees whose wishes have been fulfilled. For the followers irrespective of their religion, believe that all “mannat” done with a pure heart are answered. Buses carrying loads of pilgrims stop here for the blessing and where followers make their offerings. Others simply walk in for a quick prayer. The Matka Peer Baba is actually called Hazrat Sheikh Abu Bhakar Tusi Edri Kalandari Matka Peer Baba. The saint came from Iran and possessed miraculous powers of healing. And it is to this date that believers hold to this faith. In the event one’s prayers are answered the offering is a matka, yes an earthen pot made by the humble potter.

Location – On Mathura Road, at the corner of the turning to Bhairon Singh Marg.

Timing – No fixed timings opened throughout the day. Parking can be done in the Bhairon Singh Marg lane.

Highlight - At the foot before the stairs, one can buy the offerings or chadawa. It is two thalis (plates) of offering containing - fragrant rose petals, incense sticks and sugar coated offerings. The thali is sold as a pair. This is placed at the Dargah upstairs with the covered head with a cloth. The incense sticks are lit in a separate place meant for it.

Insider Tip – The musicians belt out harmonious melodious music, which literally transports one to another world. And it is difficult to believe that one is in the same mad metro. Though the shops below sell only indigenous sweet smelling rose petals as opposed to the export variety one gets everywhere in the market, somehow it smells even more wonderful here. It is this heady smell of roses which greets one at the entrance.