Saturday, August 28, 2010

Janpath - Shopper's Delight

Janpath is a “must do” for all visitors coming to Delhi. Janpath is the backpacker, tourist, college goers paradise for clothes, slippers, accessories, odds and ends, bags and more…Janpath was known as Queensway and it is not uncommon for old timers to still refer to it buy its old name. Janpath extends from the heart of Connaught Place down the road till it meets South End Road at the Claridges circle near the Hungarian Cultural Centre. South End Road which houses the Diplomatic population leads to Lodhi Estate. It is the middle road of what Lutyens built. It cuts across Rajpath, India Gate covering a huge stretch of important buildings in its wake. Janpath though a road, for most it refers to a wonderful rows of shops which sell some of the most interesting of wears. Janpath market has a total 35 shops. The shops in three separate segments. The shops at the far end, opposite the famous Cottage Emporium is known as the Tibetan market and one can find some really exquisite pieces – be it Tibetan handicrafts, metal work, beautiful silver earrings, old door knobs, look alike antiques….

The side lane offers excellent Western fashion wear – no they are not rip offs but export rejects… The base of the Indian Oil Building has plenty of shops selling shoes, silver earrings…The old Cottage Emporium is also located here, this was “the” place to go before CCI moved to its new space at Jwahar Vyapar Bhawan. Old Cottage Emporium does hold furnishing exhibitions from time to time. It also has a range of furniture and other products at veritable discounts.

Location – In Connaught Place, Sundays are said to be closed but many shops are open.

Timings – About 10 am in the morning to 7:00 pm or so

Highlight – After the crossing starts the entire stretch of clothes, handicrafts, Gujarati antiques, bags, shoes….. The bookstore at the centre offers a good collection of modern, classical and old books. Some of the excellent shops include – Bonton, Tantra T-shirts, Silver World for beautiful silver jewellery, there is a shop selling indigenous perfumes – itar – got from where it is made Kannauj. It is an ideal place to browse through, hang out meet friends.

Insider Tip – Bargaining is the norm….from 1/3rd to 50%, if you are a foreigner, the prices are slightly more marked up. Most shopkeepers though welcome foreigners at the cost of domestic shoppers!! The only place to eat are the food joints on the ground floor of the Indian Oil Building. Dee Paul’s cold coffee, patties, milk shakes provide enough refreshment when on the go.Also read the post of Gujarati Textile Sellers of Janpath

Saturday, June 12, 2010

Safdarjung Tomb

Safdarjung Tomb, also called Safdarjung ka Maqbara is a beautiful garden tomb set amidst the hustle and bustle of Central Delhi. The tomb, yes as the name suggests is of Safdarjung. Safdarjung Tomb was built in 1754 A D and follows the precicints of Mughal Architecture in its full glory. The tomb though usually takes a backseat when compared to the other monuments and tombs in Delhi. The popular ones of Red Fort, Qutab Minar, Humayun Tomb, usually relegates this beautiful structure into the background. Located just off the busy stretch of Safdarjung Road, named after the tomb, the Safdarjung Tomb is hardly visible from the main road, shielded by a high wall boundary. All one gets is a wee bit glimpse of the dome rising into the sky from the Safdarjung Airport flyover, which is the greatest pity for a beautiful jewel is so totally camouflaged. Passing though the thick walls which form the boundary into the area actually takes one into another world, of leisure, open spaces, gardens…..where time literally stands still.

The Safdarjung tomb was built for Mirza Muqim Abul Mansur Khan (who was given the title of Safdarjung), by his son Nawab Shujauddaula. Safdarjung was an able and powerful figure, the Governor of Oudh during the reign of the weak Mughal ruler Muhammad Shah (1719-1748) and a powerful Prime Minister to his successor Ahmad Shah (1748 – 1754). Safdarjung died in 1754 and the Tomb was built thereafter. The body of Safdarjung is buried along with another body thought to be that of his wife.The Tomb has been built in the same pattern of Mughal tombs, the mausoleum at the Centre and the gardens in the classic Char Bagh style surrounding it. This reference to history is given on the stone tablet at the entrance, the only bit of information available about the Tomb (there is no other publication or printed material available on it!!!)

The beautiful enamel work in stone and detailed motifs on the high walls at the entrance gate, give a precursor to what lies inside. As soon as one walks into the sunlit huge area, it is with awe one views the monument. Rising high in the traditional four column structure, with a huge dome is the tomb more on the lines of the Humayun Tomb. The four sides are connected by four waterways or canals, now dry though I am told for VVIP visits or special occasion it can work i.e. it is flooded with water. The entire structure is made of red sandstone and marble and is very striking and resembles the Humayun tomb.

The tomb has some excellent inlay work which can be seen from the outside. It has some beautiful marble carvings inside. As one proceeds into the area, one is left wondering by the heavy stone construction and how it is cool despite the warm weather outside. The garden on the outside which is being renovated now has been laid in the traditional char bagh style. With the palm lined trees on either side, it is a picture of complete bliss a hark into the era of how life once was leisurely and savoured!!!

The Archaeological Survey of India’s Delhi chapter has its offices located at the far end of the area. As also the library atop the entrance.

Location – About 8 kms from Connaught Place, very near Jor Bagh market. Near the Safdarjung Airport. It is on the main road so well connected by almost all modes of transport. 

Timings – The tomb is open from Sunset to Sunrise all the days of the week. Since there is a mosque where prayers are offered. A huge car park is convenient. The ticket price Rs. 5 for individuals and Rs. 100 for foreign tourists. The parking lot at the entrance is a huge relief!!

Highlight – The rooms at the top of the entrance occupy the library. It is quaint how a couple of rooms serve perfectly well in the modern century though built ages ago. The library though small has a good collection of books. Try going up, it is a revelation on the architecture and how it can sit cocooned in the modern day world!

Insider Tip – There is no leaflet, pamphlet or any written material available about the tomb, so read up on it or carry a guide book along. Guides are also difficult to come by. If you can take a trip to the ASI office, may be a helpful official can explain the structure and architectural elements better. A visit to this can be clubbed with Shopping at Dilli Haat (read Shopping At Dilli Haat) or INA Market, Sarojini Market or the Jor Bagh Market, each has its specialty and charm. A visit to the Lodhi Gardens, Khan Market or Sunder Nagar Market is also possible.

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