Safdarjung Tomb

Safdarjung Tomb, also called Safdarjung ka Maqbara is a beautiful garden tomb set amidst the hustle and bustle of Central Delhi. The tomb, yes as the name suggests is of Safdarjung. Safdarjung Tomb was built in 1754 A D and follows the precicints of Mughal Architecture in its full glory. The tomb though usually takes a backseat when compared to the other monuments and tombs in Delhi. The popular ones of Red Fort, Qutab Minar, Humayun Tomb, usually relegates this beautiful structure into the background. Located just off the busy stretch of Safdarjung Road, named after the tomb, the Safdarjung Tomb is hardly visible from the main road, shielded by a high wall boundary. All one gets is a wee bit glimpse of the dome rising into the sky from the Safdarjung Airport flyover, which is the greatest pity for a beautiful jewel is so totally camouflaged. Passing though the thick walls which form the boundary into the area actually takes one into another world, of leisure, open spaces, gardens…..where time literally stands still.

The Safdarjung tomb was built for Mirza Muqim Abul Mansur Khan (who was given the title of Safdarjung), by his son Nawab Shujauddaula. Safdarjung was an able and powerful figure, the Governor of Oudh during the reign of the weak Mughal ruler Muhammad Shah (1719-1748) and a powerful Prime Minister to his successor Ahmad Shah (1748 – 1754). Safdarjung died in 1754 and the Tomb was built thereafter. The body of Safdarjung is buried along with another body thought to be that of his wife.The Tomb has been built in the same pattern of Mughal tombs, the mausoleum at the Centre and the gardens in the classic Char Bagh style surrounding it. This reference to history is given on the stone tablet at the entrance, the only bit of information available about the Tomb (there is no other publication or printed material available on it!!!)

The beautiful enamel work in stone and detailed motifs on the high walls at the entrance gate, give a precursor to what lies inside. As soon as one walks into the sunlit huge area, it is with awe one views the monument. Rising high in the traditional four column structure, with a huge dome is the tomb more on the lines of the Humayun Tomb. The four sides are connected by four waterways or canals, now dry though I am told for VVIP visits or special occasion it can work i.e. it is flooded with water. The entire structure is made of red sandstone and marble and is very striking and resembles the Humayun tomb.

The tomb has some excellent inlay work which can be seen from the outside. It has some beautiful marble carvings inside. As one proceeds into the area, one is left wondering by the heavy stone construction and how it is cool despite the warm weather outside. The garden on the outside which is being renovated now has been laid in the traditional char bagh style. With the palm lined trees on either side, it is a picture of complete bliss a hark into the era of how life once was leisurely and savoured!!!

The Archaeological Survey of India’s Delhi chapter has its offices located at the far end of the area. As also the library atop the entrance.

Location – About 8 kms from Connaught Place, very near Jor Bagh market. Near the Safdarjung Airport. It is on the main road so well connected by almost all modes of transport. 

Timings – The tomb is open from Sunset to Sunrise all the days of the week. Since there is a mosque where prayers are offered. A huge car park is convenient. The ticket price Rs. 5 for individuals and Rs. 100 for foreign tourists. The parking lot at the entrance is a huge relief!!

Highlight – The rooms at the top of the entrance occupy the library. It is quaint how a couple of rooms serve perfectly well in the modern century though built ages ago. The library though small has a good collection of books. Try going up, it is a revelation on the architecture and how it can sit cocooned in the modern day world!

Insider Tip – There is no leaflet, pamphlet or any written material available about the tomb, so read up on it or carry a guide book along. Guides are also difficult to come by. If you can take a trip to the ASI office, may be a helpful official can explain the structure and architectural elements better. A visit to this can be clubbed with Shopping at Dilli Haat (read Shopping At Dilli Haat) or INA Market, Sarojini Market or the Jor Bagh Market, each has its specialty and charm. A visit to the Lodhi Gardens, Khan Market or Sunder Nagar Market is also possible.

Mangoes Galore - Mango, sweet, sour, tangy......bliss

Summer spells only one thing – MANGOES in capitals. The king of fruits is what mangoes are for some, even a novice can distinguish amongst the mangoes. For the connoisseur, mangoes are a byword in luxury, precisely peeled, cut to perfection, served beautifully untouched by hand. It is a fruit on which nearly everyone goes gaga on. And the capital is never left behind in its repertoire of mangoes. And why not, it gets flown in from the entire country. India may have innumerable mangoes but in Delhi it is riot from April onwards when mangoes start coming from the South initially, the the West and ofollowed by the ones from North. Mangoes actually taste better after the first showers of rain. That apart, the range is mouth watering. Each mango has its particular nuance.

The earliest to make its presence is Safeda as it is pronounced. Safeda is excellent for mango shakes. Then comes the Malda, smallish and green in colour. A good variety is the red coloured attractively called Sindoori. Yes, it looks a beautiful red and yellow just like the sindoor women use!!! and tastes wonderful. Safeda, Kesar from Gujarat, Kesari, hapus, tota (because it is parrot shape like)….  Mid June onwards Dussheri makes its way,  hapus, langda, chausa, dinga, saroli….Though for the discerning it is Ratnagiri Alphonso, Malgoa from the South….both which need some endurance to procure directly.

It is usually advised to soak the fruit in water to remove its heat. Milk / curd and mangoes go very well together. Nearly all restaurants / five star hotels plan their particular Mango festivals and there is range from Mango puddings, custards, kulfi, Mousse, Doughnuts, Tarts…..check out and create your own “must have” lists for every summer. Not to be missed ice creams and Gola or chuskis. Gujarati restaurants serve Chhunda, Amras, Kadhi, Kalakand, Mishi Doi with mango flavours are available at Haldiram & Mother Diary outlets.

Of course with all talk of the juicy sweet mangoes pushes the raw mango so popular for instant pickles, typical Aam ke Achar and chutneys to the background. From the Ram kea am, unripe Tota mangoes (excellent for instant pickles), unripe safedas for Aam Panna……

Location - A natural place is the Azadpur Sabzi Mandi, the C block is reserved for it, or pick it up from the Adarsh Nagar metro station. Okhla Subzi mandi has its range. The price there is almost 1.3^rd of what one pays near homes. INA market, Khan Market, also stock plenty of mangoes including the exotic ones.

Exhibitions - The Delhi Government holds a two day mango festival in June – the venue which earlier was the Talkatora Indoor Stadium has since moved to Pragati Maidan, Dilli Haat – INA and Dilli Haat Pitampura. Watch out for it as the ads come out only a day or so earlier. One can taste a host of items from mangoes – jams, custards, puddings….and of course get to see the best of mangoes. Sad part though one cannot buy everything, majority is only for display. There are no sign boards or pamphlets available. All types of mangoes from the very tiny measuring a few cms to 5 inches can be seen, as well as rare exotic ones.

Highlight -   Mahilabadi fares come with plenty of experimentation. Mahilabad is known for its Dussheri and a host of mangoes the varieties of which can be seen at the Mango festival in Delhi. 

Insider Tip -  The NHB has been organizing mango festivals and getting Gujarat Kesar, Baganpalli from Andhra Pradesh, Malgoa from Tamil Nadu….under the Sangam brand. Baganpallis are also available at times at the Andhra Bhavan, New Delhi. The only problem is that they sell a minimum of one box or peti (4 dozens). You can try with other Bhavans if the caterer is kind enough to get you some special from that state.Alphonso mangoes are available at select shops. Rama Stores in Munirka brings in amblis or small green mangoes for pickles (called kanni manga in Tamil) in early Jan / Feb. They also stock some regional varieties during the summer months.