Antidote to Delhi’s winter – Halwa, halwa and halwa..at Sheeren Bhawan

The original article appeared in The Hindu Read the unedited version here.... Warming the body with winter halwas An old Chandni Chowk halwai had once told me, “dilli ka halwa to halwa soan hai” – meaning Sohan halwa is “the” halwa of Delhi. It is and Ghantewalan’s Sohan halwa is legendary. In the same breath that made by Chaina Ram is also saluted. Of course, Chaina Ram’s is more known for its Karachi halwa. Now these halwas are well known, as also the range of suji, wheat, moong dal halwas. However, come winter months and all eyes turn to the rich flavoursome gajar ka halwa. It is the bylanes of Jama Masjid (Chitli Kabr) and Chandni Chowk which stand out for this winter delicacy. It is while trying to track this in the Jama Masjid that the lesser known more flavourful Safed Gajar halwa came to light. Along with this several other winter offerings – Habshi, Gondh, Aloe Vera (geekwar) also came out. One of the oldest establishments selling Safed Gajar Halwa is Sheeren Bhawan. Tracking my way down the road, opposite Gate No. 1 of Jama Masjid is tantalising with rich offerings from Bakeries, Sheermal makers, Shahi tukda sellers and more. What touches one is the large heartedness of the sweet makers who happily offer their wares to sample before you even wish to purchase and do not bat an eyelid when you do not buy anything. Such refinement is rare in today’s Delhi. Shiraz, one of the sixth generation running the nearly 100 year old Sheeren Bhawan says, “it is actually sunehari gajar and it is sunehari gajar ka halwa.” The white carrot which I get to see looks more like the humble radish in colour though in shape like the red one. The taste though is entirely different. It does not have the inherent sweetness of the red carrot. It tastes like a carrot without sweetness with a neutral taste. Shiraz explains the genesis of white carrots saying, “the reason sunehari gajar is used is that it can be processed beautifully. We are the only ones who make it here. Some have started it recently. The traditional red variety mashes when cooked. Also it has a sweetness which is imparted to the halwa. White carrot on the other hand absorbs the flavours of milk, sugar, ghee, khoya and dry fruits and is more on the dry side and can be processed well.” Sheeren Bhawan has been making this for over 60 years, a recipe introduced by their grandfather Shri.Tajuddin. The white carrots grown in Uttar Pradesh make their way to Delhi and are more expensive than red carrots. Red carrots typically cost Rs. 10 to Rs. 15 a kilo while this can range between Rs. 55 to Rs. 65. Also the season for this short, sunehari gajar halwa makes its presence mid December and lasts typically till end February. The establishment starts its winter saga with typical lal or red gajar halwa and ends the season with the red gajar halwa. The cooking begins at 4 am in the morning and takes around 1 to 2 hours like the traditional gajar halwas before it can reach the shop shelf. It is kept in a huge cauldron with a burner underneath to serve it warm. The black carrot which is used for making Kanji is made into a halwa in Benares, I am told. Then Shiraz opens up on the other hot favourite in their shop, the Habshi halwa (the name reeks with racial connotations). The typical black colour of the halwa reveals Shiraz is got because of the addition of spices to the halwa. He explains, “we use about 70 spices which make up the masala. These are ground and added to the milk along with samnak (sprouted wheat which is dried and ground finely) and the milk is brought down to granulated form. It is further processed and cooled. The process easily takes 10 – 12 hours.” It is however the list of spices which after much cajoling Shiraz reveals in bits, the cloves leads the pack with elaichi, nutmeg, cinnamon, javitri…several other herbs like shatvari. Though 70 spices is still far off… The ground masalas give warmth to the body and is considered ideal for winters. This recipe was concocted by Shiraz’s grandfather who had a special interest in cooking. Several others also sell Habshi halwa, each establishment has its own recipe. The bylanes of Ballimaran have legendary places to pick up this. The Aloe Vera halwa story is interesting as it has been around eons before Aloe vera has become a very sought after plant with many benefits. Shiraz says, “farmers from Rajasthan would come and sell it to us for Rs. 5 a kilo as there were no takers and we were bulk buyers. Now the factories for processing it to other cosmetics etc buy it and we have become smaller buyers.” Shiraz rips the halwa to show me the aloe vera gel which has gone to make the halwa. The process is tedious, the leaves of aloe are scrapped and the gel is collected. This is boiled in water and reduce to form a gum or resin like substance. This is added to milk, samnak and allowed to cook, when it starts to reduce, sugar is added and then left to process for a few more hours. After which it is cooled and cut into pieces. Aloe vera is a coolant, so to make it fit for winter months, it is again spiced up. Spices are trade secrets! The balancing draws out the goodness of aloe vera and the warmth for winters is provided by the spices. Siraz adds, “we make a special geekwar halwa using saffron and other costly ingredients. This is made between 25th or so of December to 26th or so of January. It sells at Rs. 2000/- a kilo. It is ideal for cold climates, a lot of NRI population demands it and uses it throughout harsh winters overseas.” Both these halwas can be kept for a month or so. Aloe vera is available at various joints also. Edible Gondh comes from the sap of Acacia trees, available as a crystal, it has thickening, emulsifying, thickening properties. It is fried and adorns the halwa. It gives warmth to the body and hence is plenty of demand during winter months. Gondh is processed with milk, samnak wheat, sugar, edible gum to come up with a gondh ka halwa. It is grainy and rich to taste. It is the aloe vera halwa and habshi halwa which stand out. The blend of spices in Habshi halwa is unusual, it is rare that one can see spices used so strongly in sweets. Shiraz explains, “we add all good ingredients that are good for the body and give it in a sweet form. People consume it as a sweet but it does wonders to their body.” I am a huge fan of gajar ka halwa, this spread somehow has made me keep the red gajar halwa in the back burner for some time!

Fine Eating in Delhi's Connaught Place - United Coffee House

This appeared in The Hindu 

United Coffee House turns 75 - The Hindu

Read the unedited version here...

Flash back of 75 years...

“Archived dishes are a very big homework. We have an archival recipe record of nearly 400 – 500 dishes which we have served in our restaurant in the last 75 years. They are not original or authentic recipes but our adaptation of these to the taste of our customers and the time.” Says Akash K Kalra, Managing Director, The United Group, “of these around 150 – 200 dishes are on the menu all the time. We keep going back to these, bring it back to our customers, adapting it to suit their palette and trend of the day. I look at myself as a custodian of this heritage which I want to retain and take it forward,” finishes Kalra.

Despite this emphasis on food and cuisine from all over the world, it comes as a surprise to know that when United Coffee House started, food was not its focal point. It was more of a place to meet and chat – an adda of sorts – to enjoy a cup of coffee with snacks, to wrap up the day. As Kalra says, “this place was more of a hangout where people could meet. For many, this was a place to walk in on Sundays after listening to the Military band play and watching the fountains at Central Park to walk in here for a cup of coffee with snacks. It was a part of a Sunday ritual for many.”

The establishment of the first coffee house in Delhi in 1942 was the brain child of Lala Hans Raj Kalra (Akash Kalra’s grandfather), the son of a liquor baron who had a flourishing liquor business in Sialkot in Pakistan. The family moved to Delhi and were based in Chandni Chowk. They also owned a liquor bond and a liquor shop in Chandni Chowk. The first foray into hospitality came with the setting up of Esplanade Restaurant & Bar in 1938-39 to cater to the American GIs who had their barracks at the Red Fort. It proved to be very popular but since it was meant for the GIs it wound up with their moving out after the war in early 40s. Around that time, Hans Raj Kalra heard of an affluent shopping arcade in Lutyens Delhi called Connaught Place which had been built in the shape of a horse shoe to bring luck to the traders and its customers. Going there, he found little bakeries were the Memsahibs sold homemade goodies, equestrian shoe makers, drapers…However what it lacked was a Coffee House. Coffee Houses were “in” those days especially in England, and there was none here. He bought the place and opened United Coffee House. As Kalra says, “he called it United because it was a place where people could unite for coffee.” Thus Hans Raj Kalra also sealed the family business into hospitality moving out of the liquor trade they were in.

Initially in the 40s, the place was open from 11 am to 8 pm typically selling street snacks of Old Delhi. People would congregate for coffee. As Kalra says, “food then was commercial food and Bibiyana food or that which was made at home. No one would eat home food outside so it was only commercial food – omelette, chana bhatura, tikka...” Post independence in the 50s, the hours extended and by 60s it became a full fledged restaurant. The cuisine initially was a mix of the Old Delhi Kayasth food and Frontier Province Pakistani food.  The menu expanded and during their life time, the place has served everything from commercial food, Bibiyana food, Madras Club Food, Bombay Club Food, Calcutta Club food, Anglo Indian, Khansama cooked Memsahib cuisine, newer variants of continental food, Asian, Mexican, Lebanese and of course Indian including popular appams and dals. Having been conceived in the British Era, there is still a fondness for the Old Raj cuisine especially British Club food – Cheese balls, cutlets, samosas, chops, cutlets…English breakfast. The Menu in itself very interesting offering a host of vegetarian and non-vegetarian dishes (breakfast, tea snacks, main course, starters and more..)

Though there is such a range of dishes available, Kalra says, “We are known for our keema samosa, cheese balls, tomato fish, chicken a la kiev. These have not been invented by us. But our variation is a huge hit, it is amongst our signature dishes.” Apart from these there are plenty of staples – the Chaplee Kababs, Railway mutton curry, Dak Bunglow chicken curry, Chicken Maryland, Coq Au Vin, Chicken a la princess.. Kalra explains, “my grandfather had the acumen to get some of the finest cooks of those times to work for us. With their feedback and my grandfather’s insight a dish would be perfected after much trials. For example a chef from Lucknow might add raw mango and bay leaf to a Dak Bunglow chicken curry which made the taste entirely different from the usual one. It is such little variations which adds to our dishes and taste.”

To commemorate the 75th year, a new menu will be unveiled in May. Classic dishes which have not been on the Menu for 20 – 30 years are being revamped and brought back. Kalra enthusiastically says, “Fuyong, Chow chows from Asian, butter milk burgers…amongst others. Again these dishes are being adjusted to suit today’s palette. So if a baked salmon was served with boiled vegetables then, today we would be doing it with braised Bok Choi.”

What works for the UCH is that it still retains the old world charm of the 1950s. The food has been adapted to suit today’s nuances but yet the ambience is one of relaxed uncluttered luxury. One actually feels one is back in time when one steps into the restaurant - the laid back era of fine dining, huge chandeliers, unhurried knowledgeable waiters, the attention and care to the patrons with a sense of discreet familiarity.

Wenger's - an establishment that changed the way Delhi ate its patisserie

The original article appeared in The Hindu - Stories from the oven - The Hindu

Read the unedited version here... 

 

Somewhere in the early 1924, an enterprising Swiss couple Mrs. Jeanne Strechi Wenger along with her husband H C Wenger began a catering venture for the British troops operating from Kashmere Gate called Wenger’s. Their food must have been good as in the then being built Connaught Place, a portion of the A Block was reserved to house Wenger’s. Wenger’s officially shifted to their present location, in early 1930s, with its confectionery and tea room  - Rendezvous (café), La Mer (ball room) and Green Room (party room) spread over two floors. In true Raj style, during summers, Wenger’s downed its shutters to move to Wenger’s Simla, the summer capital. Soon a young Brij Mohan Tandan, joined as General Manager. In 1944, Mrs. Wenger sold the business to Tandan and retired to Dehradun.  Atul Tandon, current owner / partner who runs Wenger’s today with his brother – first cousin Aman Tandon recalls, “I still remember in the late 60s of going to Dehradun during summer holidays. In the evening we would visit Mrs. Wenger and she would treat us to homemade baked goodies and take us for a ride around town in her car. We used to call her Memsahib!”   

Tandan had learned the ropes of the business, and carried forth the legacy that the establishment spelt, the emphasis on quality and everything made in-house – proprietory. As Atul Tandon, says. “what my grandfather bought was the brand name, the utensils and some equipments which were there.  Over the years, we have innovated, closed some operations, introduced new variants, started the Deli, manufacturing at Noida and over hauled the production process.” Charanjeet Singh, manager, an old hand who joined Wenger’s in 1965 says, “then we had four types of pastries made using margarine - pineapple, strawberry, vanilla and chocolate. They cost Rs. 5 per dozen and people would buy a dozen or half a dozen and not less. Today, we have over 70 varieties of pastries all made from fresh cream which no one does. In chocolates there were 7 – 8 variety, now we have 22 varieties of chocolates.”

It does come as a surprise that a majority of the “European confectionery or patisserie products” were actually introduced by the Tandons. At one point of time, it also had a range of Indian mithais available. The ground floor patisserie shop is the only iconic landmark reminder.   

Wenger’s had the who’s who coming for its delights.  Atul Tandon laughs, “M F Husain would sit in the restaurant and speak to my Tayaji. He would doodle and sketch on the cotton cloth napkins and leave them behind, which would be promptly thrown into the dustbin by my Tayaji. It was considered a wasted napkin.”   Singh adds, “He used to walk in bare feet and he loved our Shammi kababs and Chicken patties.” He parts with more gems, “Actress Helen is fond of our wine chocolates and visited us often then. Atal Behari Vajpayee before becoming the PM would simply walk in and buy vegetarian products. The plum cake was a great gifting option to the Late Indira Gandhi.” It is still a popular gifting option.  From the over 250 products, it is the pineapple pastry, black forest cake, truffle which rule the roost. Traditional preparations like the plum cake, pudding are still made using the old recipe perfected by Mrs. Wenger with improvisation. Easter specials of hot cross buns, marzipan and Easter eggs work well. Recently custard based peach tart pastry has been launched as also Panettone.

With the onslaught of competition, Wenger’s has managed a fine balance of uncompromising on quality with affordable prices. Fruits are soaked in rum for over a month and the long procedure is followed. However, what touches the heart most is the old world hospitality of personalised service, polite unhurried charm a throwback to the times of what Delhi once was. 

Chidambaram's New Madras Hotel

Yes, authentic South Indian mouthwatering fare dished out by Chidamabaram’s for over 60 years. This old establishment has it all serving from the usual Idli, Dosa, Uttappam, vada to thali, butter milk, kesari and more. Despite Delhi being flooded with Idli Dosa joints or those serving South Indian food, there are very few which maintain the authenticity and taste. This one does, the coconut chutney is actually made using coconuts and not simply bhuna hua chana dal. The food is not spicy, loaded with chillies variety and tastes quite good. It is a wonderful mix of affordability and more importantly nostalgia for my father. It is ideal for a good dose of near home cooked food at affordable prices when one’s cooking fails. Usually the best South Indian meal for a Tambrahm is invariably at home. But this one does win our hearts for a near substitute when our cooking takes a back seat.

Old Recollections – Chidambaram’s Mess (it was run by the owner - Chidamabaram) as it was known was frequented by my father, a bachelor then in the 1950s. The entire Lodhi Colony was barracks built for the American soldiers during the World War. A set of four rooms had a kitchen and two separate bathrooms and loos. After the war the barracks were vacated by them. Following Indianisation, it was allotted to Government employees. Of course, the number living in each such quarter far exceeded that permissible. It was known as Chamaris. It is in one of these kitchens sublet that Chidamabaram’s mess operated. With plenty of youth and bachelors living in the area, region wise messes were common. So for South Indians there were Chidamabaram’s, Rao’s mess, Mannadiyars and Nair’s Mess. 

Of these as per my father, “Chidambaram existed because the food was good and he maintained the quality and standard.” From the others, one ran away, Mannadiyar moved to Sarojini Nagar and vanished. It was difficult running out of rented space. Having eaten for over five or more years Chidambaram was well known to my father and the last time he met him was when they travelled together to Madras (it was known that way then, most regulars do call it that!) by GT (Grand Trunk) Express. My father proceeding to Kerala via Chennai, that’s how travel was then. Daddy moved on, married and settled in Delhi but nay a nostalgia to revisit that place. Mom was such a fabulous cook. With my longing for South Indian food outside home being limited, there was never an opportunity to revisit.

This nostalgic visit to Chidamabaram was thanks to my father’s recollection of his food. A casual trip to Meher Chand Market was backed with an impulsive, lets go to Chidambarams. After much search, we found it in the Khanna Market street, small reminding one of coffee shops tucked away in a typical South India. It had long moved out of the Chamaris and was a part of the huge market. The establishment was there and in the words of my father, “the food is still good and tastes good like those of yore”. Chidambaram though is no more. The restaurant is now called Chidamabaram’s New Madras Hotel. It is now being run by his son. The Menu now is no longer just lunch and dinner as in a mess but includes a host of dosas and idlis. The range of dosas, uttappams and adai is a decent 28 variety. Apart from South Indian food, there is a variety including Chinese.

Location – Khanna Market – Turn into the bylanes of Lodhi Road flats from Meher Chand Market and simply move down the road of the market. This is a small shop located near the end of the market. Shop No. 7.

Timings – 8 am to 10:45 pm (ideal for a typical South Indian breakfast!)

Highlight – The entire South Indian fare is good. Coconut chutney is made the authentic way, my father vouches for it. It is easy on the tongue and not loaded with spice. Sambar is like home made with a good taste to it. Dosas, idli, uttappam…take your pick. I am told the thali with typical Tamilian vegetables – kootu, curry – is excellent. My father is a finicky perfectionist for food and he vouches for it. We are yet to taste it, I will give a full blown account then!!

Insider Tip – Forget the routine dosa, vada, idli routine, instead go for the snacks. My father narrowed in on the Masala Vada (of course it will be good, Chidambaram was a good cook my father’s verdict). It is served with sambhar and chutney. There is Raw Plaintain bhajji – called vazhakay or kachha kela bhajjis, bonda, onion pakora and onion bhajji. These are typical items made at home and not so easily available in restaurants here in Delhi. Try them and enjoy it. The South Indian filter coffee is par excellent, (my dad’s verdict second to mine – sweet of him!). There is masala mor (firang bikers sip it before zooming away)… The tiny shop outside offers batter and namkeens – the mixture is good.

Go fill up on traditional south Indian food, the ambience, Tamil music does transport one to a typical hotel in Tamil Nadu.  

Murthal ke Paranthe

The original Food Safari: In search of Murthal ke paranthe - The Hindu

Read the unedited version here....

Murthal Ke paranthe

Paranthas or paronthe (in Punjabi) are what ideal mid morning brunches are made of during the cold winter days. Thus paranthas are made everywhere with all kinds of winter vegetables and eaten with gusto. So can such an ubiquitous parantha actually give a little non-descript town its prominence or better still make people drive all the the way 70 kms (I drove 82 kms one way to be precise with a friend in tow), just to taste the paranthas. The answer is an Unbelievable YES, when it comes to Murthal Dhabbas and its typical die hard favourite - the paranthas with the excellent kali dal. Murthal is actually one big village which falls on NH 1 linking Delhi to Punjab. It is beyond Sonepat and on the way to Panipat.

The Dhabas appear on the left side as you travel from Delhi towards Punjab. To reach the dhabas, avoid the newly built flyover which makes you shoot the profusion of dhabas, instead take the little road next to the flyover. And there stands clusters of dhabas - 50 or so some on the other side as well.

These are not your usual dhabas where you sit under the sky in the typical Manji (charpoys) with prompt service by Chotu the server boy. Instead, most of the dhabas have tin sheet cover fitted with fans, with uniformed servers (prompter than Chotu), eating is on very clean laminated tables and chairs, tissues on hand, ac restaurant is available, there are wash basins with electrical hand dryers, clean granite loos and like shops in a petrol pump there are several selling churans (digestive aids), pickles and even stuffed toys.

The Dhabas started around 1948 or so, to offer food for truck drivers passing by. Since there were limited options for the truck drivers, this stop proved to be popular. At that time, there were only 3 – 4 dhabas. Ahuja Dhaba around 64 years old is the oldest one around, followed by Gulshan which was started in 1950. No one knows how paranthas came to be associated with this place. The usual say is that crisp fried Paranthas a typical Punjabi staple breakfast item had with lassi and dahi was served throughout the day caught the fancy of the drivers and of course the passing traveler. Since paranthas are not so readily available the ones here caught on. Most people say, the dhabas were around from the time the road was a huge single road.

The first stop was at the much touted Gulshan ka dhaba and it did live up to its name. A cursory nod to an alu pyaaz parantha and my chit chat about the paranthas was rudely interrupted with “aap ke paranthe tande ho rahe hain! (your paranthas are getting cold). We were amazed, in a matter of a few minutes there was piping hot paranthas with dollops of home made white butter (it is milk country where largest sizes of washing machines have been known to churn out butter!), with kali dal (whole urad dal fried almost home made). This is accompanied by pachranga pickle, sirce wali pyaaz (baby onions pickled in vinegar) and fresh green chillies to bite into. The paranthas are not the typical ghee fried but made on Tandoor. I enquire on the typical ghee paranthas, to be told “who has ghee paranthas anymore.” Hearing this Manoj Gulshan, one of the owners of the Dhaba thinking me to a co-enthusiastic fan of ghee paranthas asked, “Do you want to try the ghee paranthas? It will just take 10 minutes.” Given his enthusiasm, I was much persuaded, only to see my friend glaring at me with an expression, “how can you think of ghee after so much of butter.” I mumble a quick, “no thanks.” Manoj explained, “originally the paranthas were shallow fried in pure ghee. It is this new health consciousness where people do not take pure ghee paranthas that 15 or so years ago we switched over to the tandoor ones. Those are real paranthas, I still have one made that way everyday. I do not enjoy the tandoor ones and feel they are slightly under cooked.”

Another advantage is that in the absence of non-vegetarian food and eggs, Tandoori paranthas go very well with liquor which is served in plenty.  All the dhabas in the area are Vaishno or pure vegetarian. The tale behind their being vegetarian is equally charming. It is said that in that about 60 years ago, a Naga Sadhu appeared here, some say he blessed the people, others say, he cursed the place. The dictat he issued was any commercial establishment selling non-vegetarian food including eggs 10 kms either side from the spot he sat would be ruined. All those adhering to this norm would be very successful and flourish. The words came true. To my query as to whether it was just a myth or was there some substantive truth was met with. “We have seen countless establishment who opened dhabas in scant disregard with a too hoots attitude, suffer loses and close down in the next 3 – 6 months.”

The paranthas offered include – aloo pyaz, mixed vegetables, gobi, paneer, mooli.. and cost Rs. 35 onwards each. The next stop is at Sukhdev. It is more on the lines of a restaurant than the humble dhaba with sweet corns and other branded on sale. Started in 1956, it is very popular given the hoards of cars parked around it. Then there is Phelwan dhaba, Ahuja, Jhilmil…The various kinds of paranthas offered is the same everywhere. On a scale of 20, the quality of paranthas everywhere is between 17-19, Sukhdev did not have hari mirch in it, but the dough was slightly more, at Gulshan, the green chillies are a problem, though they make it without it, at Jhilmil the paranthas cracked. We lost our heart to the first alu pyaaz parantha, probably we were hungry after travelling a good two hours or the piping hot paranthas served with so much care and friendliness took our hearts away.

Process: Approximately each parantha takes 80 – 90 gms of flour. The flour used is a mix of the chakki ka atta and that of the flour mill. The dough made is slightly loose unlike the tight way of kneading it for rotis. In the filling apart from the vegetable which is finely chopped, a fair amount of green chillies, salt, coriander leaves are added. The potato is boiled and mashed to which raw onions are added. This roasts deliciously in the hot coal tandoors to impart its own particular flavor. Around 20 gms of white butter is placed on it and voila it is ready to be served.

Shyam Lata Sihare - pickles, papads and more the ole fashioned way

The Original article in Hindu Mistress of spices CHITRA BALASUBRAMANIAM

(The unedited version is .....)

A catchy line, “Old Fashioned Gourmet” on a host of pickles, squashes etc piqued my interest. Further probing revealed a passionate lady; Mrs. Shyam Lata Sihare fondly called Amma, who was behind the products. And therein revealed a passion for food and all the ingredients that went into it. The welcome ring in the voice when I called up to speak to Shyam Lata, saying, “aap aayiye, hamare products chakiye aur phir achha lage to likiye - you come taste our products and if you like it, go ahead and write about it.”   Amidst the aromatic waft of spices permeating from the kitchen, an extremely courteous staff takes me to meet Amma. I am greeted with a warm beaming smile with affection, despite a foot in cast.  

And before long, I am drawn into an Aladdin cave of sorts with a treasure of information on spices, dals, food, jams, squashes and of course pickles. It soon becomes apparent, that the entire operation is more of a passion and hobby than a livelihood venture. Shyam Lata is a Marwari hailing from the J K Industrial Group family. She elaborates, “The reason we started was to make available quality products in which there is no adulteration. In a bid to make a product affordable, there is a compromise in the quality of the ingredients. If one does not eat right then how can one survive?” It is in this quest for making products which are 100% pure that her venture started way back in 1993 and her products are in demand by those who appreciate quality including the who’s who of Delhi.

So what is so special about her pickles and other products? Pickles are available all the time everywhere. Here lies the difference; the pickles made by her sold under Aravali Foods are made the old fashioned way using the age old recipes with nay a change. Everything is still hand made with little or no use of machines. Spices are bought whole, washed, sun dried naturally, cleaned by hand and then yes, hand pounded in a huge mortar and pestle. Salt is bought in rock form, washed, dried and then again hand pounded to the fine powder. So is the chilly, spice powders and garam masala. The mangoes, lemons, chillies are also washed, dried and cut by hand quantities not withstanding. The mixing of the pickles is done in huge vessels by hand using ladles just like it was once done at home. There is no compromise no adulteration. As she says, “I will not compromise on quality just to sell.”

With this perfectionist bend, she started making a few kilos of pickles, which given the good quality of ingredients, sold well. And then began the journey. Speaking of the recipes, she says, “it is recipes made by my mother and grandmother. First we made pickles, then squashes, then people started demanding that we also sell them the hand pounded spices which we used in our pickles, then came pappads, vadiyas, magode….. ” And more products are being added as the journey progresses.  

Given this obsession for quality, she realized what mattered was to establish the right sourcing for the ingredients straight from the farmers where there will be little scope for adulteration. As she adds, “even the wholesale mandi does not offer fresh good quality spices.” There were failures; an entire consignment of Ajwain had to be thrown away because it was old stock. When hand washed it revealed insects. A consignment of Badi elaichi went bad. So she got down to researching, finding out, getting samples from across places, testing-tasting them and finally discovering the niche source. So it was finally Unjha, Mehsana District of Gujarat from where the best of ajwain straight from the fields is procured. So fresh that she adds, “one can just use a pinch and feel the aroma.” The hing or asafoetida is sourced from Kabul. The liquid tapped from trees is imported into the country and is processed here. It costs as much as Rs. 9000 - Rs. 10000 a kilo, the aroma is unimaginable. The little packet that I have bought still manages to induce its smell in the entire home. I query, “do I use a pinch”? All her staff cries in unison - no a pinch is a lot. Shyam Lata adds, “Take a toothpick and prick it and put it in the dish.” Whole turmeric is bought from Erode, cardamom fresh from the gardens of Kerala, other spices from Bangalore. From Unjha come the dhania or coriander seeds. She explains, “we buy the smallest size of coriander which are tender and bursting with taste. The bigger sized ones are filled with husk and do not have taste and aroma. While jeera it is the medium sized ones.” The garam masala has a whopping 16 - 20 ingredients, including nag kesar, jaiphal, javitri, karan phool, pipli small and big, tej patta, black pepper and of course no coriander seeds. Rock salt called Sendha Namak comes from Sindh in Pakistan as also the Kala Namak. The huge rock in white and black salt is shown to me. Kasoori methi comes from Nagaur and she vouches is not bitter. The mangoes for the pickles are the Rajapuri mangoes from Maharashtra and Resham Patti chillies from Gujarat. This is just the tip of what is used.

Speaking of red chilies, her assistant Tannu adds, “we clean out the seeds and the top and nearly 40% of the weight is lost.”  The discussion of spices is so fascinating that I seem to have lost track of the products made. Matter of factly, she adds, “pickles can be made with mangoes, chillies, lemons. It is the combination and the spices which make it different. None of my pickles use acetic acid or common salt. It is made using hand pounded Sendha namak. There are oil free pickles as well.”

Unable to accompany me to the dining table where her staff has spread out some of the products, she goads me to ask them any question. The staff about 4 of them vies with one another to give me information with a tremendous sense of pride in what they are doing. So there is mango garlic, chilli garlic in a fine mash, which goes delightfully with Paranthas I am told. Garlicy it is nice and flavoured, Mirchoni uses mango with hing and is hot, there is chuara (dry dates) with lemon and other ingredients, ginger with chuara, mango lachha, meeti mirch, red chilli in orange juice, green chilli, red chilli with raisins, lal mirch banarsi, hari mirch jaipuri….  Then during winters it is gobhi shalgam and vegetable based ones. They make 40 or more types of pickles, (no, I think they have never counted them). Then there are squashes and concentrates, the kairi pudina (aam panna) is wonderfully refreshing. Each pickle has its own ingredient carefully sourced, sorted and then made. What is foremost is quality, as she adds, “even if a few pieces drop on the floor, we do not put it back. We keep it aside for someone to take it but we do not sell it to our clients.” Preserves do not use pectin. I am astounded by her attention to detail and running the enterprise single handedly. In true style she says, “any new pickle I keep it on my bed side table and carefully study its ageing.” For me, what stood out was the distinct home made taste, not once, did I feel it was a product made for the market. Lovingly made, delicious to taste and natural spicy aroma, it is another world of slow food and good homely ole fashioned charm.

On the Samosa Trail in Delhi

The original article in Hindu Samosa trail in Delhi

Read the full un-edited article here

On the trail of samosas in Delhi

Samosa, the wonderfully oily guilt laden anytime snack filled with potatoes, is actually a random eat, reached out to when the body needs some instant refueling. It is eaten without a second thought. So what can be different about these wonderful triangular contraptions which Muslim invaders / traders brought with them from Central Asian, to go on its trail? A lot my friends, the samosas served in Delhi to a large extent reflects the culinary antecedent of the maker and dishes out the unique flavor of the area. This list is by no means complete but simply whets up the appetite.

The ideal place to start seems with the bite sized samosas which was the inspiration for this piece. In off beat Shanti Mohall, near Gandhi Nagar market which is a haven for export fabrics, I was offered these very tasty light small samosas. Further investigation revealed it was made by Vinod Kumar, who hails from Farrukkhabad and his samosas are called Farrukkhabadi samose.   The filling is mashed potatoes, really smashed to which salt and red chilly powder is added. Vinod Kumar says, “I keep the masalas light and not too heavy.” It takes off from the UP cuisine where the food is seasoned very slightly and is not heavy.  

From the bite sized, it seems natural to foray into the giant sized ones. Yes, weighing between 300 gms to 350 gms each are these giant samosas from the classy Embassy Restaurant in the genteel environs of Lutyens Connaught Place, Inner Circle. Sunil Malhotra, Partner, Embassy Restaurant says, “we have been serving these samosas for over 60 years now. Since we were open throughout the day, there was a necessity to offer snacks. So serving normal samosas was not an option, which is why this large size was experimented with and was an instant hit.” The takeaway outside serves the traditional one filled with cubed potatoes, paneer pieces and matar (peas), with loads of green chillies. It is hot on the palate but the flavours are a distinct take off Punjabi cuisine from across the border. Inside, the restaurant also serves two variants - one filled with Pindi chole and the other mutton.  

From the heartland of Punjab to the Bengali bastion of Chittaranjan Park, here one gets the Singharas as samosas are called. Filled with cubed potatoes fried with groundnuts, boiled chick peas and coconut bits add to the flavor. Dadu’s Cutlet in C R Park, market 2 is one such which sells wonderful singharas only in the evening. Offering Allahabadi samosas is Bengali Sweet House at Bengali Market, Connaught Place. As Girish Aggarwal, Managing Partner, says, “these are filled with well fried dal, which gives it a long shelf life and is ideal for travel.” How small? A kg of the samosas has around 100 pieces.

No account is complete without visiting the gastronomical belly of Delhi - Chandni Chowk. In Chandni Chowk the thumb rule for samosa is to use nearly all vegetables as per the season with alu being perennial. There is a samosa trail here itself. The first place that of Tewari Bros opposite Allahabad Bank. Ravi Tewari, owner is very knowledgeable on sweets pan India and makes a range of samosas. Siya Ram the samosa karighar / specialist says, “We make Mewa samosa with dal, kaju, kishmish which is fried and grounded into fine powder for the filling which are both sweet and spicy. The hare matar ke samose -  green peas, kaju and kishmish in the filling. There is gobhi, gajar and green peas with special handmade masala and more.” A personal quirk which Siya Ram has introduced is a jala like design on the samosa. This results in the samosa having a double layer. The samosas are not heavily spiced a take off from Kanpur where Tewari hails from.

Then there is the theekha (spicy) gobhi samosa at Kanwarji Bhagirath Mal Dal Beeji wale. With over 150 years of tradition, the samosa is still prepared the heritage way with the special masala made in house. As Roop Narain Gupta the fifth generation of the family says, “these samosas can last four days easily.” The masala is finely grounded and the gobhi is literally dunked into it, retaining its flavor together with the masala. The taste firmly grounded Dilli ka.

No account of samosa is complete without referring to the Japani Samosa of Manohar literally a work of art. The shop dates to 1949 and traces its origins to 1924 in Lahore. Umesh Kumar Ratra  the third generation running the place today does not have a clue as to why it is called Japani, probably due to the paper fan like shape of the samosa. Umesh adds, “it has a total of 60 layers. The samosa when it is made is more like a lump. On being fried it opens its petals like a flower giving it its unique shape.” As one eats through the incredibly crisp layers, the filling of alu, matar with very little spice hits the mouth light and heart warming. This is served with piping hot delicious Pindi Chane and an interesting pickle of lauki (bottle gourd) and mango. And if all that sets the tongue on fire, what else stroll back to Tewari Sweets for their sweet samosas. The small samosas are filled with khoya and dry fruits, deep fried and then dipped in chashni or sweet syrup. It is decorated with slivers of almonds and pistachios. The taste delicately sweetened.  End of trail - pure bliss!

Mangoes Galore - Mango, sweet, sour, tangy......bliss

Summer spells only one thing – MANGOES in capitals. The king of fruits is what mangoes are for some, even a novice can distinguish amongst the mangoes. For the connoisseur, mangoes are a byword in luxury, precisely peeled, cut to perfection, served beautifully untouched by hand. It is a fruit on which nearly everyone goes gaga on. And the capital is never left behind in its repertoire of mangoes. And why not, it gets flown in from the entire country. India may have innumerable mangoes but in Delhi it is riot from April onwards when mangoes start coming from the South initially, the the West and ofollowed by the ones from North. Mangoes actually taste better after the first showers of rain. That apart, the range is mouth watering. Each mango has its particular nuance.

The earliest to make its presence is Safeda as it is pronounced. Safeda is excellent for mango shakes. Then comes the Malda, smallish and green in colour. A good variety is the red coloured attractively called Sindoori. Yes, it looks a beautiful red and yellow just like the sindoor women use!!! and tastes wonderful. Safeda, Kesar from Gujarat, Kesari, hapus, tota (because it is parrot shape like)….  Mid June onwards Dussheri makes its way,  hapus, langda, chausa, dinga, saroli….Though for the discerning it is Ratnagiri Alphonso, Malgoa from the South….both which need some endurance to procure directly.

It is usually advised to soak the fruit in water to remove its heat. Milk / curd and mangoes go very well together. Nearly all restaurants / five star hotels plan their particular Mango festivals and there is range from Mango puddings, custards, kulfi, Mousse, Doughnuts, Tarts…..check out and create your own “must have” lists for every summer. Not to be missed ice creams and Gola or chuskis. Gujarati restaurants serve Chhunda, Amras, Kadhi, Kalakand, Mishi Doi with mango flavours are available at Haldiram & Mother Diary outlets.

Of course with all talk of the juicy sweet mangoes pushes the raw mango so popular for instant pickles, typical Aam ke Achar and chutneys to the background. From the Ram kea am, unripe Tota mangoes (excellent for instant pickles), unripe safedas for Aam Panna……

Location - A natural place is the Azadpur Sabzi Mandi, the C block is reserved for it, or pick it up from the Adarsh Nagar metro station. Okhla Subzi mandi has its range. The price there is almost 1.3^rd of what one pays near homes. INA market, Khan Market, also stock plenty of mangoes including the exotic ones.

Exhibitions - The Delhi Government holds a two day mango festival in June – the venue which earlier was the Talkatora Indoor Stadium has since moved to Pragati Maidan, Dilli Haat – INA and Dilli Haat Pitampura. Watch out for it as the ads come out only a day or so earlier. One can taste a host of items from mangoes – jams, custards, puddings….and of course get to see the best of mangoes. Sad part though one cannot buy everything, majority is only for display. There are no sign boards or pamphlets available. All types of mangoes from the very tiny measuring a few cms to 5 inches can be seen, as well as rare exotic ones.

Highlight -   Mahilabadi fares come with plenty of experimentation. Mahilabad is known for its Dussheri and a host of mangoes the varieties of which can be seen at the Mango festival in Delhi. 

Insider Tip -  The NHB has been organizing mango festivals and getting Gujarat Kesar, Baganpalli from Andhra Pradesh, Malgoa from Tamil Nadu….under the Sangam brand. Baganpallis are also available at times at the Andhra Bhavan, New Delhi. The only problem is that they sell a minimum of one box or peti (4 dozens). You can try with other Bhavans if the caterer is kind enough to get you some special from that state.Alphonso mangoes are available at select shops. Rama Stores in Munirka brings in amblis or small green mangoes for pickles (called kanni manga in Tamil) in early Jan / Feb. They also stock some regional varieties during the summer months.

Eating out at Chandni Chowk – A curtain raiser

Nothing beats the food at Chandni Chowk. Eating at Chandni Chowk is a literal cake walk since you cannot go wrong in the choice of place. Even a blind stop and eat will be fruitful with divine taste flowing through the taste buds. Everything is so tasty and every shop has its own story and heritage to tell and has a huge bunch of die hard faithful followers. And the shop can very well operate from under a Peepul / Banyan tree, a crevice window of a building to a eatery with peeling walls. A theory in inverse ratio, the lesser the décor elements of the shop better the food!!!! The art of perfecting your favourite place to pick out the best comes with numerous visits and does one start discerning how to choose, the man selling baked biscuits off the mobile cart, hot and crisp at the end of the Paranthewala Gali comes only for two hours, the man selling hot puris and kachoris at Nai Sarak opens shop only at noon…..and as one starts mastering the eateries, it is with undisguised greedy glee that one plans a visit to the bylanes of Chandni chowk.

Believe me, food has never tasted so good before. The true blue blood at Chandni Chowk would of course start with Doodh and jaleebi in the morning even dahi jalebi, followed by the puri aloo (bedmi puri) routine, rounded off with moong dal halwa….well to the uninitiated, every food joint in Chandni Chowk, has its die hard follower, food at every nukkad tastes equally good and is clean and hygienic. Be it the non descript aloo tikki wallah who sells tikki with the khathi chutney right next to the Pepul tree towards the beginning of the Cloth Market or the street side kulfi wallah who dishes out his offering from plastic cones – it used to be earthen pots earlier.  

The entire Fatehpuri is lined with some excellent shops for namkeen – namak paras, salted cashews, kachoris, pakoras, chole bhatura, sweets – Karachi halwa, gulab jamun, rasgullahs…. Other joints include the Bikanerwala, Haldiram, to Amritsari Lassi, Juice wallahs, kulfi, channa bhaturawallahs, Chach, Sweetend Dahi, Rabri, halwa makers...almost everywhere.

The die hard favourites include kasta Kachoris, Puri subzi menu, yes, the pumkin (sitaphal) finds prime place in the repertoire of vegetables. Chole Bhature, Aloo Tikkis, samosa filled with all kinds of vegetables including gobhi (cauliflowers), namkeens, Lassi, Jalebi, Kulfi…..

The timing for each stall varies, the food and flavour though remains the same. One article cluttering all eateries does not do justice to the culinary taste of Chandni Chowk…. So I think I will just pick up each item like samosa or chuski or kulfi and write of places with divine taste for each as we go along……

Delicious sweets for Winters - Halwa

(Hot – piping hot Gajar ka halwa - the Supreme One!, not to be left behind Moong dal ka halwa and more…)

Truly on could sing, all I want is some Gajar ka Halwa. I know, in winter what with ravenous appetites it is difficult to control the craving for sweets and what tops the list are hot – piping hot halwas. Aha they are food for the souls, tasty extremely filling and leaves one feeling warm, comfortable and in love with world (despite the bitter cold ) feeling inside. The trick of the halwa is that it is packed with all natural goodness which offers warmth to the body and gives it energy for the winters. So it is ghee (clarified butter), dry fruits – almonds, raisins, milk (for gajar ka halwa), suji (semolina), crushed moong dal.

Gajar ka halwa or Gajrela as it is popularly fondly called beats the halwas hands down during winters. It is made from the English variety of carrots which makes its appearance in the cold season. And with it starts the romance with the Halwa. The quickest way to make it at home, is to simply grate in the carrots, add the sugar, milk, ghee and pressure cook. Decorate with raisins, khoya and serve. Though strictly “No comments” on its taste. Purists will scoff at it, (as does yours truly also except when she makes it in a jiffy then it is defined aka 2 minute halwa!!!) The true delight as my mother makes is to simply heat the grated carrot to remove the fluid from it, slowly cook it with milk, ghee, sugar, the adornment with raisins, khoya…I am not sure of the proper order but well, the halwa is mouth watering. The other best of course is to buy from the market – aah and are they plenty in their offering. A couple of spoonfuls is enough to warm the cockles of the heart. It does become heavy on the stomach is devoured in greedy proportions.

Moong dal ka halwa is made out of moong dal (split lentils – mung beans), heavy duty roasting slowly in pure ghee to which huge quantities of almonds, raisins, walnut….(dry fruits – mawa) are added. It is so rich that a couple of spoons are enough satiations for the stomach and soul.

Nearly all sweat shops sell gajar ka halwa & moong dal ka hawla during winters, one just needs to pick one’s favourite.

Location: Some popular ones include:
Gianji’s - Their gajar ka halwa and moong dal ka halwa is wonderful in the evenings. Their outlets dot the city.
Ghantewala Halwai (the venerable sweet / confectionary shop in Chandni Chowk) has moong dal ka halwa, gajar ka halwa.. (as the shopkeeper put it, we will sell till the gajar season lasts!!!)
Chainaram’s in Chandni Chowk
Nehru Place is dotted with shops selling gajar ka halwa. There is one next door to Sharma Photocopy where it is divine.
Bikanerwala, Haldiram’s, Rameshwar, Anupam, Nathu’s….
(Do write in if you have your favourites – it will be worth a try!!)

Timing – It is available from morning 10:00 am till late into the evening. There is no best time to eat but it is to beat the evening cold, both the halwas come to their own. The price ranges from Rs. 200 per kg to Rs. 350 per kg. A plate can cost anywhere from Rs. 10/- or more.

Highlight - I think nearly every halwai in your nukkad (round the corner) market offers it and one develops a sweet tooth for it. Each to his own favourite joint when it comes to eating Gajar ka halwa and moong dal ka halwa.

Insider Tip - What further adds to the halwa is that the gajar ka halwa, the glorious one is available only during this weather. And the other hot favourites like moong dal ka halwa, lauki, seethaphal, sohan halwa, Karachi halwa….the commonplace suji..the feast is a true fit for the gods. It does taste heavenly when combined with other sweets – Gulab Jamun, Ice-cream, kulfi….take your pick or simply enjoy the ghee dripping delights!!!!

There are other sweets eaten hot during winters – gulab jamun, malpuas…..that is of course musings for another day and post.

Eating Out in Delhi

Delhi is a huge melting pot of influences which is amply reflected in its cuisine. Today, the melting pot assimilates national, international cuisine, some cuisine “adapted” to Indian taste well – Chinese a huge example in this direction. Delhi offers innumerable places to eat, each having its own traditional offering. The food palette includes almost all kinds of food from India and a delectable spread of International Cuisines. Traditional Indian food is classified apart from geographical bearings as per caste, religion. The nuances are plenty as also the range of spices, condiments and vegetables, fruits, cereals, meat, rice …that is added.

The Capital’s foodaddiction includes the classy Chandni Chowk fare – the Delhi Bania style of cooking in pure ghee without the use of onions, garlic, the Mughal style of kababs, biryani, the Punjabi touch of Pindi chole, Rajma chawal…Regional cuisine can be tasted from spicy Andhra Fare, Namma Tamil sapadu (Karol Bagh, Lodhi Road..), Malayali fare of puttu…Gujarati, Rajasthani snacks and thalis, Parsi, Iranian, Anglo-Indian fare…..Yes, it is food lover’s paradise. No pun intended, a friend’s husband on a visit to Delhi from Kerala, asked in all innocence “don’t people cook at homes, the food stalls are always so very crowded”!!!

This section tries and captures some of the best to be indulged in Delhi. No, this is neither a “eating out of the street” kind of a vengeance section neither “oh how can they eat street food – with emphasis only on chic upmarket cuisine” atitude. But in turn it is a slave to the taste buds, yes anything that tastes good, is different, has you ruminating about its glory during the day and pursuing it salivating in your dreams. Being a vegetarian, an eggetarian to be precise, the non-veg food section might not be justifiable but I shall make amends with recommendations from die hard “only non-veg” friends!

Happy Eating (Munching, Lunching, Snacking……..)

Buying South Indian filter coffee powder in Delhi

The South Indian coffee aka filter coffee or kapi – is a die hard South Indian addiction, not easily given up even when kilometers away from homeland. For South Indian filter coffee fans, each has its pet style and theory for brewing the heavenly decoction. Of course, there are plenty of places to drink (which will be a part of another log), there are some excellent joints to buy filter coffee powder and brew it in style to your taste at home. The easiest way to get to a filter coffee powder shop is by using one’s powers of smell. And it does beckon when coffee beans – Peaberry, Arabia or Robusta is roasted slowly to perfection – light, medium or dark.

Some old traditional joints include:

1. Coffee Board outlet – Behind Scindia House – in Janpath Lane. Just follow your nose to the smell of fresh coffee powder being ground. They also have other outlets.

2. Devans South Indian Coffee & Tea (P) Ltd, a little shop tucked into a corner market at Lodhi Road market in New Delhi. They offer customized grinding. One can give the combination of coffee powder to chicory, roast and of course the beans.

3. Veeramali near Lajpat Nagar who is used to sell roasted beans which can be ground at home. I am not sure if the shop is still around.

4. Nearly all South Indian stores – Rama Stores, Cochin Stores, number of them in Karol Bagh who stock filter coffee powder from South – Cothas, Narasu, Udhayam…

Highlight – Do visit these shops for at least the experience of smelling the invigorating smell of coffee, if making filter coffee is cumbersome.

Insider Tip – Learn to brew coffee from Devans. He also has a huge collection of quaint coffee brewing accessories on display. The right way to make coffee I am told is to heat the milk, sugar, water decoction to boiling point, pour in the filter coffee decoction, full flame, near first boil and turn off the heat. The trick not to heat or boil the decoction – it does work well for us!

Eating at Paranthewali Gali

The name Paranthewali Gali says it all, yes it is one lane where one can get stuffed with the breakfast fare of paranthas throughout the day. Can paranthas be so famous to be eaten at anytime – lunch, brunch or dinner – you wonder? But the crowds don’t think so and once you taste the paranthas, well even you won’t think so either! In the busy by lane of Chandni chowk are the parantewali shops. In earlier times when Chandni Chowk was a must visit for anyone, it boasted of about 16 shops selling nothing but paranthas today it is down to a 4. Never mind, the fare is still its pristine best, though old timers, my parents included swear the size of the paranthas was definitely bigger than what it is today! The paranthas are still made traditionally and shallow fried in pure “desi” ghee. The range – from the ubiquitous aloo (potato), gobi (cauliflower), gajar (carrot), methi (fenugreek) to the more exotic papad, rabri, mixed vegetables, karela (bitter gourd)… the price from an affordable Rs. 25/- to Rs. 40/- per parantha. It is value for money as it is accompanied by a couple of varieties of subzi, chutney and salad.

Location – Chandni Chowk is located next to the Old Delhi Railway Station, at an approximate 4 kms from Connaught Place. Turn in left from the turning in front of Kanwarjis sweet shop on the main road.

Timings – Open throughout the week, about 9 am in the morning to late in the evening. Parking at the MCD parking lot and from there walk it to the Gali. Rickshaws can be seen only on Sundays. The rest of the days, it is banned on the main road.

Highlight – Almost all the paranthas taste good, wrap up the binging on paranthas with imarti or kulfi at Kanwarjis at the corner. The subzi accompanying the paranthas are again typical old Delhi fare so one can come across the rarely seen pumpkins, jackfruit variance as also typical chole, paneer fare.

Insider Tip – The paranthas though made in ghee rest easy on the stomach and are very light and filling. It is very easy to loose count of the number of paranthas polished off, what with the makers gently coaxing saying try another piping hot one, “you have not tried the mirchi or methi one, it is good”!! Ideal hogging for the warm winter months.

Eating Chaat in Delhi

Snacking in Delhi is synonymous with eating Chaat. It is almost never made at home and popularly eaten off the streets! In Delhi almost every market small or big has its share of chaat vendors or wallahs. Roughly chaat can be described as vegetarian snack food from the streets. The delicious range includes a host of food snack items, but to the North Indian majority in the Delhi area, it is the, aloo tikki, aloo chaat, papri chaat, gol guppa, dahi bhallas, dahi pakoris, dahi gujiyas, bhalla papri, raj kachori, luchha tokri which comes under the chaat nomenclature.

Chaat literally means to lick yes and the fare is lipsmacking. It is crisp, tangy and brings out a variety of sensation, literally putting the tongue on fire. The chaat combines all the flavours – salt, sweet, hot, sour and cool into a homogenous blend. Such that each flavour flows distinct yet it blends as one. Giving it a unique taste which is best eaten and not described. The commonality of all chaat is the seasoning used – the khatti meethi (sweet sour) chutney (sauce) called saunt, mint green chilly chutney, green chilly chutney, green chillies, coriander leaves, rock salt, boiled potatoes, chick peas boiled and the chaat masala (spices). The range of seasoning varies from shop to shop which gives each its unique taste.

For the uninitiated -
Gol guppas or pani puris are small round crisp fritter like puris filled with a mouthwatering combination of tamarind water and more.
Papri chaat – Crisp fried papri topped with cold curd and seasoning
Ballah papri - The papri includes fried dumplings made of urad dal (split washed black lentils) called ballahs with the same seasonings,
Dahi ballahs (well, the ballahs, in sweet curd)
Aloo tikkis - Potato cutlets filled with chana dal (lentils) or green peas and spiced up. It is shallow fried on the girdle.
Aloo Chaat – Cubes of potatoes deep fried in oil on the girdle. It is served liberally sprinkled with rock salt, lemon juice, chilly powder…..
Fruit Chaat – A spiced up mixture of freshly cut fruit.

Highlight - Chandni Chowk almost all shops are good for chaat. Chaat served at each corner is different. So popular is Aloo Tikkis that McDonald launched aloo tikka burgers!
The aloo chaat in its pristine form can give French fries a run for its money.

Location - Where to Eat – Bengali Market near Connaught Place houses – Bengali Sweet Corner, Nathu. Most shops there serve chaat worth their name.
Eatopia at India Habitat Centre is a modern restaurant serving street food.
Prabhu’s Chaat, Shahjahan Road, outside UPSC building . His chaat is legendary
Natraj – 1396, Chandni Chowk is well known for its dahi ballahs
Gole Market, near Connaught Place also has some fine chaat outlets. Then the numerous Haldiram / Bikanerwala / Agarwal Sweets outlets

Timing – Most shops open at 10 in the morning and serve it late into the night till stocks last! Being street food it is a steal - priced from Rs. 10 per plate to about Rs. 30/- depending on what is ordered.

Insider Tip – There are no bad outlets selling Chaat. One cannot go wrong with a random pick. The origin of chaat is traced to finding a cure for stomach ailments, however an overindulgence of chaat can result in upset stomachs. A sore throat is also not unusual after a binge. Golguppas made from semolina are better than the ones from wheat flour. When eating gol guppas, check if the water is Bisleri, or water is of assured quality and ice used is clean and it is served untouched by hands.