Matka Market (Pottery Market) – near Sarojini Nagar

Matka Market as its name suggests is a market for pots and is located near Sarojini Nagar, a well known thrifty market place. Markets for Matka or pottery dot all Delhi neighbourhood. Indian pottery comes in various hues, sizes and colours coupled with a host of techniques to make them. Jaipur blue pottery, Kagzi, Manipur black pottery are some of the ones which spring to mind not to mention the Khurja pottery which has made a name in itself.

So a mention by someone close of a market for pottery near S.N.Depot (Sarojini Nagar Depot) on the way to Chanakyapuri pickled my interest. The market’s presence was reiterated by my parents who had bought plenty of “martbaan” - the pickle jars, bowls in various sizes so famous from North. They further added that it was made at Gwalior potteries, the huge compound which once churned a lot of pottery / ceramic ware. My research on it and its product, whether it is still being made is on the “must do” list. My parents though weren’t sure if with all the changes in Delhi, the market and its potters were still there. The potters used to sit in an inside lane on the back wall of the compound of Gwalior pottery and sell beautifully finished hand glazed ware. Many of the pickle jars, bowls that we use at home were procured from here. So armed with so much information I set out in search of the martbaan sellers. The market is there alright but the martbaan was sadly missing, which was a bit of downer for me. Going with a prefixed notion has its pitfalls. Anyways the range is not so bad, quite good and reasonable. It is more towards terracotta – pottery for the garden and home, possibly this sells more than martbaans. Who does make pickle now?? It is bought off the shelf!!!

So there is plenty to choose from, terracotta Bankura horses, wax filled diyas, figures of Ganeshas, lovely garden pots – mural like vases, bells, hanging ones, chimes..….. of course Matka – possibly the name Matka market. My trip immediately after Diwali might have been the reason for the hangover of Diwali items! The prices - very reasonable. Another disappointment, the shops simply sell what is made elsewhere. There are no potters – so one cannot see what is being made. I did not enquire about the “martbaans” or Gwalior potteries, am planning to do so on another visit, which of course means another post!

Location – In a bylane on the road towards S N Depot – Sarojini Nagar Depot. To be precise on the Ring Road turn in to the right at the Bhikaji Cama Place crossing, simply follow the road and you can view the market on your right. It is opposite to the petrol pump next to the bus stop, near a school run by the Government. The lane is visible from the main road with pots piled high. Behind Gwalior pottery.

Timings – Open all days, morning 10:00 am onwards. The sellers also have their homes there.

Highlight – The range is pretty good and it is possible to make products on order. The range includes tortoise shell plant holders, tortoise shaped piggy banks, multiple pots, matka, bird baths, diyas filled with wax, figurines of Gods & Goddess….with good stock quantities. Painted ones are also available. It is ideal to pick up pots for the garden and bird baths.

Insider Tip – It is possible to bargain, there is a discount for wholesale meaning yes if you buy more number of pieces, it is possible to strike a better bargain. The prices are quite nominal. The road is nearly empty and is ideal for quiet browsing. In another otherwise traffic filled Delhi, it is peaceful with nice wide roads and interesting browse.

Malai Mandir - Uttara Swamimalai

Uttara Swamimalai meaning the Swamimalai of Lord Subramania in the North, as opposed to the 6 such in the South. It soon came to be called Malai Mandir, which is how it is known even today. The word malai (pronounced maley) in Tamil means hill and the name translates literally into a temple atop a hill. It is perched on a tiny hillock. The word though becomes mispronounced to its Hindi counterpart malai meaning cream! This was the bastion of South Indian families through the 70s till probably the 90s when other south Indian temples started dotting the Delhi landscape. My faintest earliest memories about it as a construction site when the temple was started to be built and the head of the Kanchi mutt camped there. The only thing I remember was seeing elephants which were a novelty in Delhi. Since then, the temple has grown to now becoming a landmark on the outer ring road. The temple houses the main deity – Lord Subramania and of other Gods including Shiva, Ganesha and Rajarajeshwari. The temple has been built in the traditional style of temples of Lord Subramania as in Tamil Nadu.

On festival days, the biggest being Skanda Shashti (shasti or 6th day after Diwali) one can get to view some of the finest of local dances and orchestra from Tamil Nadu. Be it the kavadi, karagam and more…

Location – On the outer ring road, opposite Vasant Vihar. Approximately 12 kms from Connaught Place. Specifically it is in Sector VII at R K Puram. There is plenty of parking available outside the gate. The temple can be seen from afar as atop a hill, a pretty sight giving the impression of a typical Tamil Nadu style temple. The walls have the typical red stripes on the outside.

Timings – During Summers Morning – 6:30 am – 11 / 12 am, Evenings – 5:30 – 9:00 pmWinters – Morning 7:00 am – 12:00 am, evenings – 5:00 – 8:30 pm. Do check with the temple authorities for timings on auspicious days, Sundays etc..

Highlight – This is “the” place to pick up Madrasi products – plantain leaves, kanakabaram (orange coloured flowers), kadambam (where floral chains are made with a riot of colours of flowers), lotus pods, rose petals. Most of the flowers are flown in straight from Chennai, still Madras to most of us. Karika patta, paan leaves…. I am told the prashad handed out is also equally tasty, though I am yet to be privy to it.

Insider Tip – The cynosure of all eyes within the temple premises are the two pairs of peacock/peahen. Their sharp cry is a blissful relief amidst the concrete jungle around. If lucky, the peacock can even deign to dance for you spreading its wings in happy abundance. Feed the peacocks and the voracious peahens (yes, she can literally bite the pieces off your hands) popcorns, corn or better still bits of coconut from the archana basket after the worship (chadava). This was revealed to me by a regular. Climb up the steps to the top where Lord Muruga / subramania diety presides. Sit on the outer periphery, there is always a breeze even on the stillest of day. The city looks gorgeous from there. Believe me, sitting up there enjoying the breeze, watching the city flow past hearing the peacock cry, it is truly an oasis – a heaven in the hustle bustle of the city.