Baoli at Red Fort - the lesser known baoli of Delhi

The Baoli inside the Red Fort is another interesting one. One has to enter the Fort and walk beyond the Museum. It is at a slight distance secluded and usually kept closed – to keep away mischief mongers and avoid nefarious activities. A special permission is required and one is usually accompanied by an official and the watchman then opens the gate to the baoli. This baoli is a complete contrast to the Agrsen one. It is like chalk and cheese. For one, it is built of yellow Ashley stone in contrast to the hard stone of the earlier one. This yellow is also a contrast to the red sandstone of the Fort. It is the design and the stone which historians and Archaeologist put the baoli as a Tughlaq period one (14^th century).

Unlike the rectangular shape, this is an unusual octagonal one. Yes, it is a perfect shaped one! The octagonal double storeyed shaft is 6.5m in diameter and 14.27 m deep. There is also a tank next to it to which water flowed from the baoli. The number of steps just 30, on either sides are the passages and chambers. It is possible that this baoli fed the hamam inside the fort. Since the Red Fort is located on the banks of the River Yamuna, the source to the water is not very deep, hence the lesser number of steps. The baoli was handed over to the ASI in 2003 before which it was in the possession of the Indian Army. Considerable restoration work was required and this is one of the few baolis which is still functional. The water from it is used for the watering the gardens around the area. It has still not been considered as a source of supply to homes or the buildings around. The walls of the baoli have seen history written, from being used for leisure activities during the Mughal rule to being used as a prison (yes, freedom fighters were interned here) during the British rule (1757 - 1947).

Very different from the harsh bare Agrsen ki baoli, this one is soft and beautiful It is a lovely yellow structure set amidst a garden. The undulating water of the baoli, the beautiful River Yamuna flowing beyond, gentle breeze and laid back gardens, it must have been an era of gracious charm and laid back attitude.

Insider Tip – The Baoli is kept locked to avoid anti-social elements from making it their den and also to prevent any mishaps. Special request has to be made at the ASI’s office for someone to accompany with the keys. It is a nice place at a distance from the main Fort area. 

Maharaja Agrsen ki Baoli or Ugrsen ki Baoli

Amidst the busy bylanes of Connaught Place, the Building of Tolstoy Marg visible in the far end, is the quiet Hailey Road. This is the Central part of Delhi, the busy commercial centre housing numerous establishments. It is surrounded by high rise building and multi storeys. There is just a wall on the outside, and most Delhites do not have a clue as to the significance of the baoli or even that it exists. Delhi is dotted with monuments all over and on the outside, it simply looks like another monument from the 14^th century. Yes, we all just take it for granted! It is only on entering that one is dazed by the site. Endless steps which simply lead inside, reminds one of turrets except this goes down. The steps are broad, plenty of walking space on the sides and domes or tiers to count the levels inside. It is quite scary climbing down the steps as the sun dazzles and the steps seem to lead to a dead end down below. The Baoli has a breadth of 24 meters, length of 70 meters and a total of 109 steps. This is the official figure, though students and those running up and down put it at 153!!

As per the ASI records, at the level of the ground, the baoli measures 58.2 m X 13.71 m and at water level 39.6m x 7.5m. There are arched niches on both sides, home to pigeons now. The baoli has 5 tiers and one can see beautiful arches leading towards the centre where there is a platform and well.  At the end of the baoli (northern end) is a deep circular well with a 7.62 m diameter. There are traces of water here, probably because of the rains. There is also a roofed portion to sit upon. A mosque built of red stone at the top adds to the quiet charm.

There have been efforts on to revive the baoli but with borewells and tube wells being dug in the vicinity which are deeper than the baoli has resulted in the water being drawn to those wells. The slopes have been reversed so restoring it to its original glory is close to impossible.

Insider Tip – The Baoli is a gorgeous place to spend catching or basking in the afternoon sun in winters. It is frequented by students. It is quiet and peaceful far away from the hustle and bustle of the area. Climbing up and down the steps is also fun, I though didn’t relish the experience much. There is an occasional guard. Since it is isolated and lonely, it is better to go with a group and not be adventuorous and go alone.