Thursday, July 10, 2025

Eating Out - The Coffee Culture is catching on

Delhi has always been a Chai or Tea drinker's paradise. We are trying to track some coffee drinking culture across Delhi, more so on places to pick up beans, brews, percolators and more....

All writings on coffee makes me remember this incident of having coffee late in the evening at a roadside dhabha in Gurgaon. Not wanting the over boiled tea, a friend produced instant coffee and gave it to the tea boy asking him to make coffee. Not comprehending he stood asking what it was, my zealous friend coached him saying instead of tea leaves add this and not to strain. The boy came back smiling with his concoction, yes he brought the coffee with the adrak elaichi et all!!!  Excepting the South, “that” all most spoke of popularity of coffee everywhere. Espresso coffee was an aberration and the adventurous was satisfied with a rich hot tumbler of South Indian Kapi. Not any more, liberalization, brought with it the “coffee culture” hitherto not very evident in India. The times suddenly has changed with the growing popularity of coffee bars, there is demand for coffee powder and not of the instant variety and connoisseurs are going the extra mile to try out different ways of brewing coffee.

Coffee bars like CCD (Café Coffee Day), Qwicky, Barista, Blue Tokai Coffee Roasters, Starbucks,Third wave coffee, Sleepy Owl Coffee changed the concept of coffee, espresso strong black, Cappuccino, Mocha, Irish Coffee and their numerous avatars roll out and are a part of our coffee vocabulary. Coffee is hip, happening and these are “the” places to visit. Though purists would be shocked by the prices, but who can resist the temptation of Irish coffee topped with cream or Cappuccino with its frothy Italian evoking feel, Café Latte – light, Moca with its chocolatey touch.  Most of these joints also stock coffee beans or powder with which to brew one’s own cup of filter coffee.    Though for many brewing their own cuppa is still a slightly cumbersome process. A favourite pick up point for freshly ground coffee powder is Coffee Board’s outlet behind Scindia House in Delhi. The smell of coffee being ground is invigorating to say the least. Another well known joint, though I have consumed their coffee without visiting it much is Devans South Indian Coffee & Tea (P) Ltd, a little shop tucked into a corner market at Lodhi Road market in New Delhi

At Devans, Keshav Dev who has been in the business for long tells how each of the variety of coffee powder on offer was developed along with the art of brewing.  So a combination of Peaberry, Robusta, Arabica vie for attention each distinguished by its shape. Of these Peaberry is known for its flavour, Robusta which gives the bitter or strong flavour, Keshav proudly talks of his Viennese blend which is a blend of dark and medium roasted beans developed for export to Vienna and the name caught on.

Organic coffee which until a few years ago was a novelty is today widely available in the country. Tribes a venture of Trifed sources its coffee from the Nilgiri belt. The organic coffee powder (for filter coffee) from Niligiri – the unmistakeable Niligiri, is par excellent – capturing the fresh taste and smell to perfection! Believe me, this comes straight from the heart of a South Indian. The soil and water conservation department, Govt. of Mizoram has also successfully grown organic coffee, (cauvery variety). Decaff or decaffeinated coffee is popular abroad but is yet to make inroads in India. Alternate to coffee using chicory root powder and berries are also popular. A coffee substitute very popular in South India is the coriander or dhania coffee. A couple of spoons of coriander seeds are roasted till brown and powdered coarsely. This is then put in a filter and allowed to percolate using hot water. The decoction is made into coffee the normal way with milk and sugar or jaggery and sugar

However, the die hard fan goes for customised grinding choosing the bean or a combination, getting it roasted right (light, dark or medium), and finally powdering it (coarse, medium or fine) depending on the filter or percolator chosen. The percolator range varies from the Italian one which Devans retail – a double steam system where the coffee powder when heated with water forms steam rises through the nossle to settle into the container, delicately done over the fire. The French one where again the evaporating steam is captured in a glass jar. The Turkish where the coffee grows through the classic motions of heating, cooling and reheating to form a golden ring. The South Indian percolator uses the age old method of gravitation to collect the decoction.

Read other articles on coffee in this blog -

1. https://www.visitors2delhi.com/2009/06/buying-south-indian-filter-coffee.html#google_vignette

2.The Indian Coffee House, Delhi, Connaught Place

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