Thursday, July 3, 2025

Trip to the Potter's colony - Kumaron ki Basti - Delhi

Summer may spell heat and dust for many, but it is production in full swing at the Kumharon ki basti. It is during the summer months that a majority of the wares that is sold during the rest of the year is made. In winter, it becomes too cold and the clay being colder makes it difficult to work. Also drying of the objects in the sun is difficult. During summers, the clay is cool to work with, it needs to watered frequently and the objects dry faster naturally under the sun.  This humble environs supplies nearly everything that is sold by way of pottery in Delhi – from the kulhars, matkas, pots to fancy garden accessories, designer Ganeshas, figurines, huge planters, fancy lamps, humble diyas, designer diyas with holders and more. With the onset of the monsoons, drying of the objects is a problem. So it is in the summer months that a major portion of the production for the festival season also takes place. Not only that, many studio potters source their supply of mud and clay (chikni mitti) from these potters. Mud depending on what is to made and the technique is sourced from various lakes in the neighbouring areas. The Kumharon ki basti is one where tradition blends with the modern seamlessly. It is where a past technology sits comfortably with the contemporary. One can see traces of modernity. Electric wheels have replaced hand operated wheels. Of course, most of them are adept at using the hand operated wheels as well. This place is a pottery shopper’s paradise given the variety to choose from and of course the literally wholesale prices. Several of the tools used in the production is shaped by the potter’s themselves. The area is home to a couple of Shilp Gurus, several State Awardees and Master Craftspersons. Several potters from abroad visit the Shilp Gurus and other potters to learn the local technique. Some to write about them, some to even stay and do a residency course, several potters conduct hobby classes in schools and at various facilities.

Where – Potter’s Colony or Kumharaon ki Basti. This one is behind Bindapur (Dwaraka). One can also access it from Janakpuri. Reach Janakpuri bus stand.  Ask around and you can go there. The lanes are narrow and cannot take the auto. Walking by foot is the best option or a rickshaw. There is another potter's colony beyond...which I shall cover later.

Timings – There are no particular timings. One can go anytime. Though the best time during winters is the afternoon after 12 pm.

Highlights -  Organising regular pottery tours will add to income of the potters and of course showcase our ancient skills.  Just walk around and pick what you like. Several potters will have wares displayed outside the house. It is not picture perfect but is a very interesting walk through. Dusshera and Diwali are the best time to visit this place. It is a good thought to buy your Diyas and other clay items from here as the money goes straight to the potter.

Insider Tip  There are several Shilp Gurus, Master Craftsman (Potters), State Awardees and some who are very good without any awards. One can find potters from North especially Haryana, Rajasthan, Azamgarh Black pottery, Pottery from Alwar. Stoneware, ceramic, double fired, burnished stone.  There are also potters from Manipur who make Manipuri Black pottery ware. These are exceptional. Also similar pottery from Meghalaya is being done.

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